It is a Venetian tradition to go for an aperitivo before meals with friends in the so called Bacari, or Venetian Osterie, or in the traditional bars and places.
Venetians generally go to such places before lunch between Noon and 1pm and before supper between 7pm and 8pm. It is one of the Venetian milestones, so it is always lovely to go anytime throughout the year, whether before lunch on a lovely sunny day or before supper in the winter, where the atmosphere is magical and unique.
Once there, the tradition is to drink a Spriz al bitter, or a Spriz all’Aperol or a Spriz al Select; this Venetian drink is made of white wine and vermouth, one of the three mentioned here, and a sprinkle (Spriz in Venetian) of seltzer water. Although they all taste great, the original one is indeed the Spriz al bitter, which is also the most alcoholic!
It is also traditional to drink an Ombra; this is a Venetian expression which means a glass of wine and the origin of which is an old Venetian secret as follows: Ombra in fact means “shadow” and the original tradition was for Venetians to meet in St. Mark’s square for a drink “all’ombra del Campanile“, which means “in the shadow of the tower“, hence the origin of this expression. The classic and best Ombra is a glass of Prosecco; at the same time it can normally be a fantastic glass of any of the local whites or reds.
While drinking a Spriz or an Ombra, the other Venetian tradition is to eat some Cicheti, which in Venetian means nibbles, bites or appetizers; they are absolutely delicious and the variety is endless. Below is a selection of favourite places.
CANTINA DO MORI
Calle Do Mori, 429
Rialto
Tel. +39-041-522-5401
Closed on Sundays
My favourite Bacaro in Venice! Located literally few steps away from the Rialto bridge, this is a traditional Venetian place whose history goes back more than five hundred years! Ideal for a good Ombra and for the most fantastic Cicheti! The wine selection is excellent and the appetizers mouth watering. Definitely try the Chele di Granchio (fried and bread-crumbed crab claws) or the sliced dry meats or all the vegetable Cicheti each prepared in a different way, as well as the finely sliced cheese. Time has come to a standstill here. A wonderful experience to enjoy both before lunch or supper, where the atmosphere changes completely from hour to hour!
AL MERCÀ
Campo Bella Vienna, 213
Rialto
Closed on Sundays
Literally three steps away from the Rialto bridge and next door to one of the best parts of the Grand Canal, this area is regularly attended every evening by the Venetians, who gather here after a full working day to unwind and relax over a good Spriz or an excellent Ombra. My favourite place here is Al Mercà, which is located in Campo Bella Vienna. The tradition in this place is to get the drink to then stand outside and talk to friends. The fantastic and unique thing is that, every time I go back to my Venice and I come here for a drink, I meet exactly all the same good old friends of previous years and the feeling is clearly that nothing has changed as they always greet me with the same best friendship and affection such that I might never have been away from Venice!
OSTERIA AL MASCARON
Castello 5225
Calle longa Santa Maria Formosa
Tel. +39-041-522-5995
Closed on Mondays and Sundays
Located a good ten minutes walk from St. Mark’s square just off Campo Santa Maria Formosa, this is a very busy Venetian place which is good both for either lunch or supper or just for drinks with appetizers. The menu changes on a daily basis, however the main component is of course the fish, in line with the Venetian cuisine tradition. In particular, traditional Venetian dishes such as folpetti and sarde (baby octopus and big sardines) to start, to then move to spaghetti con le vongole, calamari e scampi (spaghetti with clams, calamari and scampi) or gnocchi con grancevola (gnocchi with crab meat) as first course and finally a choice for main course between sole, sea bass, tuna, octopus salad plus many more can be expected. There are also meat and vegetarian options. Given the popularity of this busy and loud place, booking is recommended.
CANTINE DEL VINO GIÀ SCHIAVI
Dorsoduro 992
San Trovaso
Tel. +39-041-523-0034
Closed on Sundays
Located a few minutes walk from the Accademia, this is a typical and historical Venetian Osteria, ideal for some excellent Ombre and Cicheti either before lunch or supper. The simple and relaxed atmosphere makes everyone enjoy this place to the full. There is an endless choice of excellent white and red wines which can also be bought by the bottle for take away purposes, but the best way to start is, as always, with a glass of Prosecco! There is a lovely variety of Cicheti, including sliced meats and vegetables. When warm it is great to stand outside with your glass and enjoy the locale by the canal.
OSTERIA DA CODROMA
Dorsoduro 2540
Ponte del Soccorso
Telephone: 041-524-6789
Closed on Mondays and Sundays
Located a few steps away from the Church of San Sebastiano, this historical Osteria is still somehow a hidden good secret. This family run business provides a very warm, simple and welcoming atmosphere; it offers a good selection of Ombre and a tempting choice of delicious Cicheti, freshly made sandwiches and some few exquisite traditional bites. It is a good and relaxing place to go before (or indeed for) lunch; it can also be a very good place for supper where to enjoy some traditional Venetian dishes, but only by prior reservation.